A digital input is not responding to the signal:
Disconnect the wires from the digital input card. Use a short piece of wire to connect the two terminals of the input (at the terminal block, not at the screw heads). If it responds, then the input is OK; if not, replace the digital input card.

If the input is OK, then the problem is either in the cable, or the device. Replace the cable on the terminal block, making sure to make a good connection to the wires. Disconnect the cable from the device and short the two wires. If it responds, then the cable is good, and the device is faulty. If not, the cable is faulty.

If the controller does not recognize analog input, digital input or analog output boards, check the ribbon cable between the core interface board (the one on the door) and the relay board. It should be secure.

If one or more relay outputs fail to supply power to the pump or valve:
Verify that the pump or valve works by plugging them into a live outlet. If four relays are all faulty at once, check the F2 (the 4 left-hand relays) or F3 (the 4 right-hand relays) fuse. The fuses may be checked using a voltmeter by measuring AC voltage between the end of the fuse and Neutral. If line voltage is present at both ends of the fuse, it is OK.

If a fuse continuously blows, then a device attached is drawing too much amperage. Note that motors draw 3-4 times more current at startup than the rated current. The limit for motors is 1/8 HP.

Check for voltage at the terminal block. If you measure between the NO terminal and Neutral, power should be present when the relay is activated (like in Hand) and no power should be present when it is OFF. If power doesn’t flip from NO to NC terminals when the relay is cycled on and off, the relay is defective, and the relay board should be replaced.

For WebMasters with voltage code of 1or 4, the alarm relay is dry contact, and voltage needs to be supplied. For voltage 6 or 7, the bleed relay is also dry contact. If voltage is switched properly, then make sure that the wiring to the terminal strip is correct, and the wire is not clamped by the plastic jacket. If prewired, the pigtail may be faulty.

If the input is in Sensor Error, or fails self test, or shows an unreasonably old date of last calibration: Turn the power to the controller off, and back on, and check again. It is possible that there is nothing wrong with the input circuitry or sensor, but the data in the controller is corrupted. This can be corrected by rebooting the controller. If the problem is not fixed by rebooting, then consult the instruction manual for normal troubleshooting of the input.

Readings are way off, and the input board is not detected even though it is installed correctly. May also have FRAM failure. Replacing the sensor and input card or core interface card does not fix the problem. Try removing other option cards one at a time. This includes any sensor input card, the analog input card, digital input card and analog output card

A water meter input is receiving pulses when it shouldn’t:
It is probably getting false contacts from an unshielded cable that is routed too close to AC voltage. Disconnect the cable from the controller and verify that the pulses stop. If not, replace the core interface board. If now OK: Disconnect the wires from the water meter and reattach them to the controller. If the pulses resume, make sure that the cable is shielded properly and routed at least 6” from any AC wires.

Controller is not registering flow from the water meter:
Cause: The controller input if faulty. Test this by removing the water meter cable from the controller terminal strip and repeatedly shorting the input and removing the short. If the controller does not register the contacts, it is faulty. Corrective Action: Replace the label/panel assembly.

Cause: The water meter cable is faulty. If the controller input tests OK, then connect the water meter cable and try to short the opposite end of the cable. If the controller registers flow, the cable if OK. Corrective Action: Replace the cable.

Cause: There is no water flow. Look for closed valves, verify that there is flow through the makeup line. Corrective Action: Restore flow.

Cause: Water meter is faulty. Corrective Action: Replace water meter.

If the flow switch shows that flow is OK when there is no flow:
Make sure that the flow switch is Enabled (in Start up page). Disconnect flow switch wires from core interface board. It should register No Flow. If not, the core interface board is defective. The float could be stuck in the on (up) position. Clean the flow switch. The switch could be stuck closed. If manually moving the float up and down does not cause No Flow to disappear and reappear, the switch is probably bad.

If the flow switch shows no flow when there is flow:
Make sure that the flow switch is Enabled (in Start up page). With a small length of wire, short the input for the flow switch on the core interface board. The No Flow error message should go away when the input is shorted. If not, the core interface board is defective.  The float could be stuck in the off (down) position. Clean the flow switch. The switch could be stuck open. If manually moving the float up and down does not cause No Flow to disappear and reappear, the switch is probably bad.

The controller shows a Sensor Error on the 4-20 mA input, device attached is putting out mA signal correctly:
Check the wiring of the device to the controller (refer to instruction manual) for connection to the correct terminals and for a good connection to the wire. If the device is supplying the power to the 4-20 mA loop, then it is critical that they wire it correctly or else they will damage the analog input card! If wired to the correct terminals, the cable may be defective. Measure the mA at the end of the cable. The analog input card may be faulty.

The controller does not read the process value (level, corrosion, flow or the “Other” parameter) correctly: First make sure that the transmitter is putting out the correct mA value. 4-20 mA input calibration is off. Check calibration.

Level: Check the values for “Full Tank Volume”, “mA when tank empty” and “mA when tank full”.
Corrosion: Check the values for “4 mA =” and “20 mA =”.
Other: Check the values for “4 mA =” and “20 mA =”.
Water Meter: Check “Flow rate at 4 mA” and “Flow rate at 20 mA”

Controller does not recognize analog input, digital input or analog output boards:
Check the ribbon cable between the core interface board (the one on the door) and the relay board. It should be secure.

The chart recorder, PLC, or computer detects no mA signal:
Disconnect wires from the 4-20 mA output board and measure mA. If 0 mA, then the board is faulty. If board is OK, reconnect the wires to the board and disconnect the wires from the device. Measure mA at the end of the cable. If 0 mA, then the cable is defective. If cable is OK, make sure that the device load is less than 500 ohms. Device may be faulty.

Controller does not recognize analog input, digital input or analog output boards:
Check the ribbon cable between the core interface board (the one on the door) and the relay board. It should be secure.

Click here to Troubleshoot Boiler Conductivity errors on a WMB WebMaster Boiler Controller.